Havelis of Shekhawati with Neemrana
Havelis
Kitschy frescoes, arched doorways, ornate windows, and technicolour murals—the havelis of Shekhawati are symbols of opulence and wonder. According to some historical versions, Shekhawati is connected to the Vedic Matsya kingdom from the Mahabharata period, however, it is the iconic buildings constructed during the colonial rule that highlights its historical relevance.
Traders who had been to the European lands brought back stories of railways, telephones, aeroplanes, motorcars and men wearing hats and suits—all of which are depicted through the vibrant paintings on the haveli walls here.
Ilay Cooper’s book The Painted Towns of Shekhawati relay how the legendary mercantile communities showcased their economic growth through these grandiose mansions. Located along the fringes of the Thar desert in Rajasthan, Shekhawati has a distinct aesthetic that emerged from the conglomeration of the Rajput style with Mughal, Italianate, and even Art Deco ethos. While a lot of these palatial buildings are in various stages of decay, the Piramal Haveli is an epitome of heritage conservation. The creative restoration work has been able to preserve this inimitable art of incorporating motifs, colours and patterns for visual storytelling.
Walking through the region is almost like a visit to an open-air art gallery. Krishna and Radha engrossed in Raas Leela, bearded rulers in stylish attire, breastfeeding mothers, mythological deities—these walls became the canvas for the everyday and the exotic, the mundane and the spiritual. Fruits like pomegranates and mangoes, animals like monkeys and elephants and much more, represented on panels both inside and outside these buildings, can overwhelm any spectator.
Hospitality
The Piramal Haveli in Baggar is a small but stunning Rajasthani-Italianate structure, approximately 40 kilometres closer from other hotels in Rajasthan. It was built in 1928 with a large open garden and two pillared courtyards painted with colourfully kitsch frescoes of flying angels, aeroplanes, and gods in motor cars. These unique characteristics of the restored Piramal Haveli, make it distinct from the other hotels in Shekhawati region.
