Reviving Ladakhi Textiles and Traditions
STORY OF JIGMAT COUTURE The beginning of an extraordinary story of a small ethical fashion brand starts with an objective to revive, preserve and promote the textile art, craft and traditional way of life in the remote mountains of Himalaya ‘Ladakh’. Jigmat duo set out to create an industry from local resources. Jigmat Couture was founded in 2010, following two years of research on possibilities of woollen textile in traditional weave as marketable product. Though weaving was not unknown to Ladakh, however there were limitation and constraints in term of weave, design and innovation. Hence the basic objective was to explore possibilities and to create valuable products for luxury market. Way back in 2008, along with few artisans got on the road with creation of local woollen textile (snam-bu) and eventually came out with beautifully textured, warm and durable products. The outcome was beyond expectation. It was time to launch Jigmat Couture.
CHALLENGES After research and development we found various challenges like forming a team of skilled tailors, till weaving we were confident enough but for fine tailoring and cutting we had to train the locals, for whom these skills are new in terms of handling the silhouettes and techniques. It took some time but finally we managed to train them. Second biggest challenge was to promote and introduce a new concept to the market in a way that it is beneficial to the community, how it’s made, sustainability and product beauty. Our products are made in Ladakh, made by local artisans at the very source of the wool, far from urban cities, so it has its own challenges and beauty as well..
REVIVING TRADITIONAL ART Although region is rich with livestocks such as Cashmere goat, yak, sheep and camel, some of the finest quality of wool is found in Ladakh, the main reason of this finesse is that the growth of wool is stimulated by the intense winter cold of windswept plateaus and high altitude. The tribes people were not reaping any economic benefit except for selling its fibers as raw materials at below commodity prices. For generation Ladakhi were dependent on agriculture and raising livestocks as their major source of income. Many of people from remote villages are abandoning the harsh realities of farming and herding animals for a more tempting urban life. In old days weaving was practiced in almost every house, every mother knows how to spin yarn. Now this art is no more in practice. Ultimately the art is dying, if incase one generation does not practice, the art will definitely die. So it is our responsibility not only to sustain these art but also to practice and promote as an artist, with these thoughts, our overall projects and venture works.
INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS IN TRADITIONAL WEAVE Armed with the exposure of industry, fashion education and knowledge that how it works as a fashion house and gifted with rich culture and craft, We figured out how to create an extraordinary textile with an otherworldly beauty and craftsmanship that is unlike anything the fashion world has ever seen. Made with cashmere, yak, lambs and camel wool, they are warm, durable, textured, luxurious, and made to last and passed down as heirloom.
Previously considered rough and raw used only for domestic purpose, we managed to transform the fiber into an exceptional product that links remote Ladakh to the luxury market. Building a base for local economy, the idea is to capitalize on the rich raw materials we have in Ladakh, for the benefit of the community, generating employment, preserving traditional art and craft for future generation to behold. For centuries Ladakhi were weaving and herding animals. But no one had thought about weaving it into beautiful luxury fabrics until we return back home and explore unlimited possibilities with our own resources.
Our textiles and products are combination of tradition and innovation. Our artisans have a natural talent for spinning and weaving, we still use traditional drop spindles and hand spindle to spin wool. To weave we use traditional foot loom and back-strap loom without changing ancient aesthetic of weave. Today where fast fashion dominates, we offer a product that will last long and ethically made.
NEW PERSPECTIVE & IMPROVING LIVES OF ARTISANS We are unique project and ethical business house, we employ directly or indirectly many local people at our atelier and projects. Now many young talented locals studying fashion at various institutes like to learn the craft, embracing the opportunity to explore possibilities with local resources. The main intention behind our projects and venture is to capitalize on our own resources and craft by transforming them in Ladakh itself, generating employment, bringing life back to dwindling village communities and let young generations understand scope in these trade beside tourism industry in Ladakh.
TEXTILE MUSEUM of LADAKH Jigmat Couture is a sustainable and ethical business model as well as a healthy social mission for keeping the rich Ladakhi culture by imparting necessary training to people for an authentic image of Ladakhi art to behold in the future. In order to keep century’s old Ladakhi art and crafts alive, we felt the need to come up with a characteristic place where one can simultaneously study, experience, apprenticeship and receive training in traditional textile art forms. Besides, a portion of our profit goes into various projects like (art and artisan) skill development workshops, research projects and now we are excited to see how people benefit out of textile museum in these part of Himalaya.
Our basic objective behind this project ‘textile museum’ is to preserve the rich Ladakhi art, craft and culture, it will not only benefit the Ladakhi people, but for everyone who wish to practice traditional arts. Eventually we aim to pass on the in-depth knowledge and better understanding of art and appreciation of the profound culture. When you step into our premises you will encounter an unabridged atmosphere of art and craft. On one side of the museum, you will find a heritage house which once used as a caravan sarai during the silk route trade and now this heritage house is being used as a private art gallery. Whereas the newly built textile museum is entirely constructed on traditional style architecture using local materials. We have incorporated all the important elements of a Ladakhi architecture such as Rabsal, Chong-tsay, Sum-stig, Yabs, Nima-lagang and so on in the building. Another notable feature is the details in wood carvings which have mostly textile motifs. The building has three levels, the first level is the museum itself, second level houses Jigmat Couture studio and the third level has workshop for traditional spinning, weaving and dying. These level also accommodates decent number of books and resources in its library.
The museum displays wide variety of costumes and textiles either woven in Ladakh or has reached Ladakh through trade routes, donned by people in everyday life or on occasions and celebrations. The textile collection and ancient artifacts on display will provide all visitors and Ladakhi’s in particular an opportunity to unravel the rich cultural traditions of Ladakh. The museum will provide a strong platform for art students and all those who have keen interest in exploring the rich textile art, cultural heritage and artistic wonder of this remarkable land.
In recent years Ladakhi textiles have created considerable interest to students and professionals, yet no venues existed to study and explore craft in depth. More importantly the local artisans themselves had no place to view their ancestral art and to consider the creative possibilities. Though the museum primarily focuses on textile art yet our exhibits include great variety of ancient articles for daily use along with traditional costumes, which will certainly leave you with admiration for the great artistic connotations of Ladakhi ancestors. A collection of Ladakhi royal and noble costumes, costumes from remote regions, early leather robes to ancient artifacts altogether not only displays exquisite workmanship but also shows functionality in perfect innovations. All in all they embody diligence, intelligence and persistent pursuits for beauty and creativity. In other words each tool of production or every article for daily use created by Ladakhi people over successive generations represents their workmanship as well as their wisdom.
Since the museum is an avant-garde brainchild of Jigmat Couture we aim to cover every aspect of traditional art under one roof, accompanied by in-house library and resource centre accommodating every collection of Jigmat Couture’s research and development samples. As a part of ongoing art initiative the museum wholeheartedly welcomes school children and art lovers for various workshops thereby aspiring to develop interest in textile art.
ENVISION JOURNEY AHEAD We wish to be sustainable enough to expand our venture from textile art, textile museum to other creative possibilities..